When it comes to Japan’s bloody Warring States period (1467–1600), no conflict looms larger than the Battle of Sekigahara. Fought on a misty morning on October 21, 1600, this pivotal clash marked the culmination of decades of political chaos and military strife that followed the collapse of the Ashikaga shogunate’s central authority back in 1467. In what was arguably one of the most decisive showdowns in Japanese history, even by modern standards, the forces loyal to the late Toyotomi Hideyoshi, commanded by Ishida Mitsunari, squared off against the rising power of Tokugawa Ieyasu. All told, roughly 160,000 samurai took to the field to decide the fate of the nation. When the dust settled, it was Tokugawa Ieyasu who emerged victorious, setting the stage for over 250 years of peace and stability under the Tokugawa shogunate.
Now, for those of you out there who aren’t history buffs, let’s begin by first setting the stage and reviewing how the story played out up until this fateful day. As you may recall, the chaos began back in the mid-15th century, when the Ashikaga shogunate lost its grip on power, plunging the country into a brutal era of civil war. During this time, ambitious warlords, or daimyo, vied for control of fragmented provinces, forging uneasy alliances, betraying one another, and fighting constant battles. Out of this blood-soaked mess emerged one unifier after another, first Oda Nobunaga, then his successor Toyotomi Hideyoshi, both of whom brought much of the country under centralized rule through sheer force, cunning strategy, and a fair amount of luck.
By the time Toyotomi Hideyoshi passed away in 1598, Japan was, on paper at least, mostly unified. But trouble was brewing just beneath the surface. Hideyoshi’s young son, Hideyori, was still a young child (the heir he had previously chosen, his nephew Toyotomi Hidetsugu, was forced to kill himself in 1595). While a council of five regents had been appointed to govern the affairs of the Toyotomi clan until he came of age, it didn’t take long for cracks to form. Chief among these regents was Tokugawa Ieyasu, a powerful and calculating figure with vast lands and deep political instincts. Sensing an opportunity, Ieyasu began consolidating his power, strengthening old alliances and drawing ambitious lords into his orbit. Naturally, this didn’t sit well with those still loyal to the Toyotomi cause.
Leading the charge against Ieyasu was Ishida Mitsunari, a high-ranking administrator and staunch Toyotomi loyalist who rallied an opposing faction of daimyo to resist what he saw as Ieyasu’s thinly veiled bid for dominance. Lines were drawn, and tensions escalated as both sides scrambled to position themselves strategically. What followed was a political chess match full of intrigue, shifting loyalties, and backroom deals. Eventually, the friction could no longer be contained, and both factions began mobilizing their armies for war. By the autumn of 1600, a clash for the fate of the country was inevitable, and the stage was set for the Battle of Sekigahara, one of the most decisive clashes in all of Japanese history.
In a second, we’ll get back to how the Battle of Sekigahara actually played out, but before wrapping up this introductory section, it’s worth noting that, at least from a travel perspective, the former battlefield is definitely a spot you might want to consider visiting during your time in Japan. Though little more than a sleepy hamlet nestled in the mountains that divide Shiga and Gifu prefectures, Sekigahara is home to one of the most impressive history museums in the world. Known as the Gifu Sekigahara Battlefield Memorial Museum, the facility does an outstanding job of retelling the dramatic tale of the legendary clash between the western and eastern armies, blending modern exhibits with just the right dose of storytelling.
Beyond the museum itself, Sekigahara also features a number of historic landmarks scattered across the area, each tied to key moments from the battle. Most of these sites are easily accessible by bicycle, making it a breeze to spend a day retracing the footsteps of samurai who once fought for Japan’s future. And if you happen to be visiting during the peak of summer, there’s a cozy little café and gift shop right next to the museum where you can cool down with a refreshing drink or grab a bite to eat before heading back out. All in all, it’s a surprisingly engaging destination for history buffs and casual travelers alike.
Tokugawa Ieyasu vs. the Western Army
As the sun rose over the cloud-covered plains of Sekigahara on the morning of October 21, 1600, a thick blanket of fog continued to cling to the valley floor. For a while, it seemed the battle might be delayed, but when the mist finally began to lift around 10 a.m., the two sides suddenly found themselves shockingly close to one another. Under the cover of darkness, Tokugawa Ieyasu’s eastern army had arrived from Gifu Castle via the Nakasendo, one of Japan’s key inland travel routes, and now stood on the cusp of confrontation with Ishida Mitsunari’s western forces. The terrain was broad and open, with hills rising on both sides, offering limited cover and ensuring that once fighting began, there would be no turning back.
Now, both armies had brought formidable numbers to the Battle of Sekigahara. Tokugawa Ieyasu’s army numbered approximately 75,000 men, while Ishida Mitsunari had between 80,000 and 120,000 under his banner. At first glance, the western army appeared to have the upper hand, with the advantage of high ground and backing from powerful clans such as the Mori of western Honshu and the Shimazu of Satsuma (present-day Kagoshima). However, internal divisions plagued the western side. Many of Ishida Mitsunari’s allies were lukewarm in their support, and some commanders had already begun quietly negotiating with the opposition. While the eastern army was more tightly unified under Tokugawa Ieyasu’s leadership, Ishida Mitsunari was gambling that his defensive position would carry the day.
The actual battle began in earnest when Tokugawa Ieyasu’s vanguard, led by the red-armored Ii Naomasa, charged directly into the lines held by Ukita Hideie. At the same time, other eastern commanders like Fukushima Masanori (who was actually supposed to have been given the honor to lead the attack) advanced, sparking violent clashes across the field. Gunfire echoed through the valley, smoke from matchlocks filled the air, and the two sides collided in one of the fiercest melees of swords, spears, and grit in all of military history. Ishida Mitsunari’s western army managed to hold its ground in the early hours, particularly under seasoned leaders such as Otani Yoshitsugu and Shima Sakon. Despite the intensity of the fighting, the two armies initially fought to a standstill.
That equilibrium began to shift during the first few hours after the dense fog cleared when Shima Sakon, one of Ishida Mitsunari’s most capable generals, was seriously wounded by enemy gunfire. Though he was carried off the field, the loss was a blow to western morale. As Tokugawa Ieyasu’s forces pressed harder, cracks started appearing in the western army’s strong defensive position. Meanwhile, several units that had been expected to fight remained conspicuously still. The most notable among them was the contingent led by Kobayakawa Hideaki, who commanded a sizable force positioned on the slopes of Mt. Matsuo. Although officially part of Ishida Mitsunari’s alliance, Kobayakawa Hideaki had been quietly wavering, and now he sat on the sidelines, waiting for the right moment to choose a side.
Desperate to bring his hesitant allies into the fray, Ishida Mitsunari lit a signal fire around 11 a.m. on the slopes near Mt. Matsuo to call on Kobayakawa Hideaki to join the main body of the western army in the fighting. The ploy, however, fell flat. Kobayakawa Hideaki remained motionless, his 15,000 troops watching Ishida Mitsunari’s position from the hillside of Mt. Matsuo as the rest of the western army fought for survival. This inaction cast a long shadow across the battlefield, for everyone knew that the balance of power could swing dramatically depending on which side Kobayakawa Hideaki chose to support during this final struggle of Japan’s age of civil strife.
For what it’s worth, some historical accounts suggest that Tokugawa Ieyasu grew impatient with Kobayakawa Hideaki’s indecision and ordered his men to fire upon his position to force a response. Whether or not that actually happened is still debated, but the decisive moment that followed is undisputed. Kobayakawa Hideaki finally made his move and, rather than attacking the eastern army as expected, turned his forces on Ishida Mitsunari’s loyalists. His target was the flank held by Otani Yoshitsugu, whose troops were already under pressure. The betrayal proved disastrous. Unable to fend off the unexpected assault, Otani Yoshitsugu saw his position collapse. Realizing the situation was hopeless, he chose to commit suicide, leaving his soldiers leaderless and exposed.
Once Kobayakawa Hideaki had committed to the eastern cause thanks to Tokugawa Ieyasu’s political maneuvering, the dominoes began to fall. Other commanders who had been quietly sitting on the fence now followed his lead, just as Tokugawa Ieyasu wanted. Wakisaka Yasuharu, Ogawa Suketada, Akaza Naoyasu, and Kutsuki Mototsuna all switched sides mid-battle. The western army, which had begun the day with a strong position and superior numbers, was suddenly fractured from within. Ukita Hideie’s men, already locked in fierce combat, began to falter. At the same time, the Mori clan, who had remained in a holding position and could have tipped the scales, refused to move at all, rendering their large force effectively useless.
On the southern end of the battlefield, Shimazu Yoshihiro and his troops found themselves surrounded. Rather than surrender, they launched a desperate breakout charge in an attempt to escape the decisive battle, cutting through the enemy lines in a bloody dash for survival. Tragically, only a fraction of his men made it out alive. Ii Naomasa gave chase but was critically wounded during the pursuit and had to withdraw en route, thereby enabling a partial retreat from Tokugawa forces back to western Japan. With the western army collapsing on multiple fronts and key commanders dead, captured, or fleeing, the eastern army began to overrun the field. What had started as a hard-fought battle was now turning into a rout.
By early afternoon, it was clear the day belonged to Tokugawa Ieyasu. The western army had been decisively defeated, not only by superior tactics but also by the internal disloyalty that had plagued it from the start. Ishida Mitsunari managed to escape the battlefield but was captured shortly after and eventually executed. Many of his allies met the same fate. Tokugawa Ieyasu wasted no time in consolidating power, stripping rebellious daimyo of their lands and rewarding his loyal supporters with vast new domains. Within three years, he would unify Japan and be formally named shogun by the imperial court, cementing his authority and ushering in the Edo period (1603–1868). He would later pass away and be enshrined at Nikko’s famed Toshogu Shrine.
Today, visitors to Sekigahara can still sense the gravity of what happened there in the events leading to Tokugawa Ieyasu’s victory. The battlefield remains largely undeveloped, and the surrounding hills, valleys, and farmland look much as they did on that fateful day. Markers throughout the area indicate where key moments of the battle occurred, and the Gifu Sekigahara Battlefield Memorial Museum provides a modern and engaging introduction to the clash that reshaped Japan. Walking the quiet paths where tens of thousands once fought gives travelers a rare chance to connect with history not just through facts and dates, but through the very land where it all unfolded.
How to Get There
Let’s pause this recap about the Battle of Sekigahara for a second and cover some logistics for those of you who want to visit the site of this epic clash. As noted, Sekigahara is located in the mountains that run between Gifu and Shiga prefectures. Thus, the process of getting there depends on which side you’re coming from. As always, the easiest way to figure out the fastest route is to just plug in your destination into a service like Jorudan. In this case, the station you want to search for is Sekigahara Station on JR Central’s Tokaido Main Line.
Once you’re actually in Sekigahara, getting around the small valley isn’t too difficult (so long as you don’t try to scale the mountain where Kobayakawa Hideaki chose to switch sides). In fact, the principal attraction, the Gifu Sekigahara Battlefield Memorial Museum, can be reached on foot in a matter of minutes from the JR station. What’s more, many of the other points related to the Battle of Sekigahara are also within walking distance, though you might want to look at procuring a rental cycle from the tourism information center right outside of Sekigahara Station.
In terms of budgeting time, know that you’ll want at least an hour or two to thoroughly savor the Gifu Sekigahara Battlefield Memorial Museum. This means that those of you looking to explore more of the valley of Sekigahara are going to need to budget ample extra time if you want to make the rounds to spots like where the Tokugawa clan had their command center or where Otani Yoshitsugu bravely committed suicide to avoid being captured. I will say, though, while these sites are great for history lovers, there isn’t really much to see at these points of interest, so don’t feel bad about skipping them.
The Gifu Sekigahara Battlefield Memorial Museum
If there is one stop in Sekigahara that you absolutely should not miss, it is without a doubt the Gifu Sekigahara Battlefield Memorial Museum. Opened in 2020, this modern facility serves as the centerpiece of the entire town’s efforts to preserve and retell the story of the fateful clash that decided Japan’s destiny. Unlike many regional museums in Japan, the Gifu Sekigahara Battlefield Memorial Museum is state-of-the-art, with sleek displays, multilingual support, and interactive exhibits that breathe life into the dramatic tale of October 21, 1600. From the moment you enter, it’s clear that this museum was designed not only for history buffs, but also for casual travelers who simply want to understand why Sekigahara matters.
One of the highlights of the museum is its immersive theater experience. Using large-scale screens, 3D projection, and dramatic sound design, the theater transports visitors directly into the Battle of Sekigahara, allowing you to feel the tension as samurai lines clash and loyalties falter. The production is both educational and cinematic, striking a balance that keeps even younger visitors engaged. It’s a powerful way to understand not just the facts of the battle, but the emotional weight it carried for the two armies and their leaders who duked it out for the future of Japan. It’s honestly one of the most impressive museums that I’ve ever seen (and that’s saying something)!
Beyond the theater, the museum houses an impressive collection of artifacts connected to the period. You’ll find armor, weapons, maps, and documents that belonged to the major players of the battle, including Tokugawa Ieyasu and Ishida Mitsunari. Many of these items are displayed alongside explanatory panels in English, which makes the experience accessible to overseas travelers who may not be familiar with Japan’s complex feudal history. Seeing these tangible remnants of the past up close helps bridge the gap between the abstract story of Sekigahara and the real people who lived and died on that battlefield.
Another feature worth noting is the observation deck at the top of the museum. From here, visitors are treated to sweeping views of the Sekigahara plain, which still looks much as it did over 400 years ago. Standing on the deck, you can trace the positions of the eastern and western armies, spot landmarks tied to the battle, and truly grasp why this valley was such a pivotal location. For many travelers, this vantage point is one of the most memorable moments of the visit, as it connects the exhibits inside the museum to the very landscape that shaped the outcome of history.
The museum also does a fantastic job of connecting past to present. Seasonal exhibits, special events, and lectures are often held to delve deeper into aspects of the Sengoku era or to explore new archaeological discoveries in the area. There’s also a café and gift shop on site, perfect for taking a short break or picking up souvenirs such as books, replica swords, or local Sekigahara-themed goods. Whether you’re planning a quick stop or dedicating half a day to the museum and its surroundings, the Gifu Sekigahara Battlefield Memorial Museum is an essential part of understanding both the battle and the town that continues to preserve its legacy.
What Else to See in Gifu Prefecture
If you’ve made the journey out to Sekigahara, it would be a shame not to pair your visit with a few other nearby destinations. For example, near the battlefield, you’ll find Ogaki Castle, which played a direct role in the Battle of Sekigahara as one of Ishida Mitsunari’s key strongholds. Though the original structure was sadly destroyed during World War II, it has since been reconstructed and now houses a museum that tells both the story of the castle and its role in the battle. From Sekigahara Station, Ogaki is only a short train ride away, making it a convenient addition to your itinerary.
A little further afield, Gifu City offers another rewarding stop. Here, the highlight is Oda Nobunaga’s former fortress, Gifu Castle. Perched dramatically atop Mt. Kinka, Gifu Castle offers sweeping views of the surrounding area. The main keep itself is a reconstruction, but the small museum inside does a fine job of explaining its history and connection to Oda Nobunaga, the powerful warlord who once ruled from this site. After visiting Gifu Castle, stick around the city into the evening to experience cormorant fishing on the Nagarakawa, a tradition that has been practiced on this river for over a thousand years and is still performed today using fire-lit boats.
On the Shiga Prefecture side of Sekigahara, history lovers will not want to miss Hikone Castle. Unlike most castles in Japan, Hikone Castle’s main keep is one of twelve original structures of its kind and dates back to the early 1600s, making it one of only a handful of national treasures still standing. Exploring the castle grounds and climbing to the top of the keep provides an authentic glimpse into what life was like for Japan’s feudal elite. The nearby castle town also retains much of its old charm, with preserved merchant houses and narrow streets lined with shops.
Finally, there’s Lake Biwa, Japan’s largest freshwater lake and a natural wonder that has inspired poets and artists for centuries. Located just a short trip from Hikone Castle, Lake Biwa offers beautiful views, seasonal activities, and the chance to unwind after immersing yourself in the history of Sekigahara. Whether you choose to take a leisurely stroll along its shores, enjoy a boat cruise, or simply admire the scenery, Lake Biwa adds a refreshing balance of natural beauty to the otherwise history-heavy itinerary of this region.
Other Nearby Attractions
For many travelers visiting Japan from overseas, Sekigahara also works well as a convenient midway point for broader itineraries. For example, you could come up from Kyoto, stop off at Hikone Castle, see somewhere like Nagahama, continue on to the battlefield, and then head back to Tokyo via Nagoya. The reverse route is equally possible, making Sekigahara an easy detour on a trip that connects eastern and western Japan. With the Tokaido Main Line running straight through town, the battlefield is never too far out of reach.
Another possible approach is to come in from the Hokuriku side of Japan. Recently, while showing family around this region, we tried this route ourselves in an attempt to dodge the worst of the summer heat. We first made our way to Tsuruga Station, then hopped on a local limited express train down to Maibara. From there, it was just a quick transfer over to the line that took us directly to Sekigahara Station. This option works especially well if you’re already exploring Fukui Prefecture or heading south from Kanazawa, as it neatly connects the Sea of Japan coast to the heart of Gifu.
Oh yeah, and speaking of Tsuruga, don’t sleep on this underrated port city. In addition to being a practical gateway to Sekigahara from Hokuriku, it is also home to Kehi Jingu, one of the most important shrines in the Hokuriku region. The city also boasts a lively food scene built around fresh seafood, a scenic waterfront, and several fascinating museums that touch on everything from local history to Japan’s maritime past. It’s the kind of place that may not always make the guidebooks but leaves a strong impression once you’ve been.
Until next time travelers…
