The area around Japan’s Seto Inland Sea is one of my favorite parts of the country. Home to thousands of islands, this beautiful body of water belies many secrets and hidden gems. Few of them, though, can hold a candle to the likes of Shodoshima. Officially the second largest island in the Seto Inland Sea after Awaji, Shodoshima is a popular destination often referred to as the “Mediterranean of Japan” due to its warm climate and the fact that it was the first place in the country to successfully cultivate olives. These days, guests to the island can learn all about this legacy at Shodoshima Olive Park.
In addition to its fame as Japan’s so-called “Olive Island,” Shodoshima is also blessed with some beautiful displays of nature. From its spectacular gorges to its breathtaking terraced rice fields, there are few places in Japan that boast such an impressive and eclectic array of natural wonders. There’s even a disappearing sandbar known as Angel Road that emerges at low tide. As if this alone weren’t enough reason to come, Shodoshima is also one of the venues for the famed Setouchi Triennale, meaning that there are ample outdoor installations strewn about the island for art lovers to enjoy.
Honestly, Shodoshima is just the kind of place that needs to be on the itinerary of anyone exploring western Japan. It strikes the perfect balance between being sufficiently off the beaten path to avoid overtourism, while also being well connected to both Takamatsu in Shikoku and Himeji on Honshu thanks to a robust network of ferries. Thus, not only is it an amazing locale in and of itself, Shodoshima is also quite convenient logistically due to its position right between these two major Japanese ports.
At the same time, the sheer depth that Shodoshima has as a destination means that a mere day on the island isn’t nearly enough. Though it can be done as a day trip, you’re much better off spending your nights at somewhere like Bay Resort Hotel Shodoshima, thereby giving yourself more time to savor what the island has to offer. Alas, out of convenience, I didn’t choose to do this and really regretted having the timer ticking down on the last ferry off the island.
How to Get There
Before we delve into what to see and do on Shodoshima, let’s first take a look at how to reach this popular island. At the risk of sounding like Captain Obvious here, know that you’re going to need to take a ferry from either Honshu or Shikoku. Unlike with its larger neighbor Awaji to the east, there are no bridges that connect Shodoshima with the mainland. This is because it is located too far out in the Seto Inland Sea for such a thing to ever be feasible.
How you get out to Shodoshima, and where you’ll arrive, largely depends on where you’re coming from. For many, Takamatsu Port will be the easiest gateway if you’re already on Shikoku. Ferries depart from here approximately every hour to the “Olive Island,” and the journey to Tonosho Port will take only about 60 minutes. From there, you’ll need to make your way around Shodoshima via bus, as there are no trains on the island.
If you’re not planning to head to Shikoku, another way of accessing Shodoshima is to take a ferry from Himeji Port. This trip is slightly longer at around 90 minutes but can often be more convenient for sightseers following more mainstream itineraries, as Himeji is more squarely located along the infamous Golden Route that many first-time visitors to Japan tend to follow. In any case, be sure to check online, as there are a number of other ferry routes available in addition to the two I’ve outlined here.
Olive Cultivation at Olive Park
No location on the island is more iconic than Shodoshima Olive Park. As the birthplace of olive cultivation in Japan, this scenic spot has become a symbol of the island and a must-see for anyone setting foot on Shodoshima. With its warm Mediterranean-like climate and rows of olive trees swaying in the breeze, the park perfectly embodies why the island is so often called the “Olive Island.” It is more than just a tourist attraction — it is the beating heart of Shodoshima’s identity and heritage.
Those who stop by Shodoshima Olive Park will find plenty to explore. The grounds are home to an expansive olive grove, a Greek-style windmill that has become one of the island’s most photographed landmarks, and a small museum detailing the history of olives in Japan. There is also a shop selling local olive oil products, cosmetics, and snacks, making it an ideal place to pick up a few souvenirs. If you are hungry, you will want to try the on-site restaurant, where the menu makes creative use of the island’s star ingredient.
One particularly charming aspect of Shodoshima Olive Park is its connection with Studio Ghibli’s Kiki’s Delivery Service. The windmill and Mediterranean-style landscape served as inspiration for one of the settings in the beloved animated film, and the park leans into this association. Guests can even borrow a broomstick free of charge at the information desk to recreate Kiki’s iconic flying pose in front of the windmill, a photo opportunity that has become a rite of passage for many fans of Studio Ghibli.
All things considered, reaching Shodoshima Olive Park is relatively straightforward, even for those coming from overseas. The site sits on the southern coast of the island, not far from Tonosho Port, and can be reached in about 20 minutes by car or taxi. For anyone relying on public transportation, local buses run from Tonosho to the park, though service can be infrequent, so it is worth checking the schedule ahead of time.
Savor Some Soy Sauce
In addition to its olives, one of the other things that Shodoshima is renowned for is its soy sauce. The island has been producing this essential seasoning for more than four centuries, thanks to its favorable climate and abundant natural resources. Over time, soy sauce making became deeply ingrained in the local culture, and today Shodoshima is considered one of Japan’s leading regions for traditional soy sauce. Walking through the soy sauce districts, you can still catch the distinct aroma of fermenting soybeans drifting through the air, a sensory reminder of the island’s long history with this craft.
While there are a number of different producers on the island, the most prominent is Marukin. This household name in Japanese soy sauce operates one of the largest facilities on Shodoshima and also runs the Marukin Soy Sauce Museum. Here, you can learn all about the production process, see displays of old tools once used in brewing, and get a sense of how soy sauce evolved from its humble beginnings into a staple of kitchens across Japan. Naturally, there are tastings as well, allowing you to fully appreciate the rich, nuanced flavors that distinguish Shodoshima’s soy sauce.
Getting to the Marukin Soy Sauce Museum is relatively simple. Conveniently situated near Shodoshima Olive Park, it is easy to combine both attractions into the same outing. From Tonosho Port, the trip takes roughly 20 minutes by car or taxi, and local buses also make the journey, though schedules can be a bit sparse. The proximity of these two highlights makes this southern section of Shodoshima especially rewarding for people looking to experience both the island’s Mediterranean flair and its traditional food culture in one go.
By the way, if time allows, I absolutely urge you to check out Yamaroku Shoyu as well. Unlike the larger-scale operations, this soy sauce maker is known for preserving the old ways of production. The owner still ferments his brews in massive wooden barrels that are more than a century old, creating a depth of flavor that simply cannot be replicated by modern methods. For food lovers, a stop here is a rare opportunity to taste soy sauce as it was meant to be enjoyed, crafted with patience, tradition, and an unwavering respect for the past.
Behold Kankakei Gorge
No trip to Shodoshima would be complete without witnessing the breathtaking beauty of Kankakei Gorge. Carved out over millennia by volcanic activity and erosion, this dramatic ravine is widely regarded as one of the most beautiful gorges in all of Japan. Sheer cliffs, curious rock formations, and lush greenery create a striking landscape that feels almost otherworldly. It is the kind of place that perfectly showcases the natural splendor for which Shodoshima is so well known.
While Kankakei Gorge is stunning year-round, it truly shines in autumn. From late October to late November, the gorge transforms into a vibrant tapestry of red, orange, and yellow as the foliage changes color. The contrast between the rugged rock walls and the fiery leaves has earned Kankakei its place among Japan’s top destinations for autumn scenery. Hikers can enjoy the views from trails that wind through the gorge or take the ropeway, which offers a bird’s-eye view of the valley below.
Getting to Kankakei Gorge requires a bit of planning, but the effort is well worth it. From Tonosho Port, it takes about 40 minutes by car or taxi to reach the ropeway station, and there are also buses that make the trip, though they run less frequently. For those who enjoy trekking, several trails lead up to the gorge, allowing for a more immersive experience of the surrounding nature. Just be sure to keep an eye on bus schedules if you are only spending a single day on Shodoshima.
Vanishing Angel Road
One of Shodoshima’s most romantic spots is Angel Road, a sandy causeway that appears only at low tide. This natural pathway connects Shodoshima with several smaller islands just offshore, creating a picturesque scene that feels almost magical, especially when paired with a sunset view. Couples and families alike are drawn here not only for the unique landscape but also for the legend that those who walk the sandbar hand in hand will find lasting happiness together.
The best time to experience Angel Road is during low tide, when the sandbar fully emerges from the sea. This phenomenon happens a few times each day, so timing your stop is key if you want to make the crossing. The views are beautiful in any season, but the combination of gentle waves, shifting sands, and the surrounding islands makes for especially memorable photographs. For many, Angel Road is as much about the atmosphere and romance as it is about the scenery.
Angel Road is conveniently located just five minutes by car or taxi from Tonosho Port, making it one of the easiest attractions to explore on the island. For those who prefer walking, it is also within reach on foot in about 20 minutes. Because it is close to the port, this is often the first or last stop for people on a tight schedule. Whether you go for the legend, the views, or simply to stroll across the sand, Angel Road is a quintessential Shodoshima experience.
Rental Cars & the Shodoshima Skyline
All of the above allures on Shodoshima can be reached easily enough by the public transportation that runs through the two towns on the island. That said, there is a lot more to see and do on Shodoshima if you happen to have an hour or two extra to kill and your own set of wheels. Below, I’ll leave a link to a Google Map as well as a tidbit about each of the other places of interest on the island.
- Shodoshima Daikannon
Standing at an impressive 50 meters tall, the Shodoshima Daikannon is one of the largest statues of Kannon, the Buddhist goddess of mercy, in all of Japan. Unlike some other similar effigies, you can actually enter the statue and ascend inside, where small shrines and viewing platforms offer panoramic views of the island. - Nakayama Terraced Rice Fields
As shown above, Shodoshima is home to some of the most picturesque terraced rice fields in the Seto Inland Sea, with rows of paddies carved into the hillsides overlooking the coast. Known as senmaida (a thousand rice fields), this landscape is especially stunning in early summer when the water-filled terraces reflect the sky. - Nijushi-no-Hitomi Eigamura
This open-air museum recreates the Shodoshima setting of the classic Japanese film Twenty-Four Eyes, based on Sakae Tsuboi’s novel. Guests can stroll through preserved schoolhouses and film sets that evoke 20th-century rural life, making it both a cultural and cinematic experience. - Osaka Castle Stones Michi-no-Eki
This roadside station commemorates the massive stones quarried on Shodoshima that were once destined for use in Osaka Castle. In addition to learning about this fascinating slice of history, travelers can browse a local market offering regional products and souvenirs. - Choshikei Monkey Park
Situated in the Choshikei Valley, this park is home to a lively troop of wild Japanese macaques. Sightseers can observe the monkeys up close in a natural setting while also enjoying sweeping views of the surrounding mountains and sea.
For those of you without rental cars, I’d suggest passing on these fringe options. Simply put, there are better and more accessible ways to spend your time than trying to transfer to a super infrequent bus line. That said, one spot that is easy to reach and makes for a fun add-on is the Dofuchi Strait. Recognized by the Guinness Book of World Records as the world’s narrowest strait, Dofuchi Strait measures just 9.93 meters at its tightest point. There is also a yokai art museum nearby as well too.
Other Nearby Attractions
When it comes to Shodoshima, it’s the kind of destination that slots into a multi-day adventure in the Setouchi region. Seeing as it’s right between Honshu and Shikoku, you’re going to want to add something on either side to make a full adventure out of it. For most, it will be easier to drop in after exploring Himeji Castle. Just be mindful of the bus schedules if you intend to arrive on the island later in the day. Service to and from Fukuda Port is pretty patchy, especially in the evening.
For my recent stay, I actually started in Takamatsu City. Home to Ritsurin Garden as well as the longest shopping arcade in Japan, Takamatsu is a great addition to any Shodoshima trip. The city serves as a gateway to the Seto Inland Sea, and its blend of history, culture, and urban comforts makes it an ideal pairing before heading out to the quieter charms of Shodoshima. Moreover, it also has a better selection of hotels than the island itself, making it a good home base for exploring the area.
Finally, Shodoshima also combines well with the art islands of Naoshima and Teshima. These nearby destinations are celebrated around the world for their contemporary museums, creative architecture, and large-scale outdoor installations. Together, they make for a fascinating contrast with Shodoshima’s more traditional appeals and natural beauty. And, thanks to convenient ferries, you could easy spend a the better part of your time in Japan just hopping between these islands.
Until next time travelers…
