For someone like myself claiming a serious addiction to Japan, there are countless areas in this amazing country that I treasure. For example, the northern Tohoku region will always hold a special place in my heart. Home to sacred sites like the Dewa Sanzan and Mt. Osore, this area of Japan is definitely worth exploring if you enjoy stepping off of the beaten path. Still, as amazing as northern Honshu (Japan’s main island) is, most of its main allures are spread out across huge swaths of the region. As a result, it’s not always the best option for those looking to stuff all that they can into their stay in Japan.
On that note, I’d like to introduce the topic of today’s article: the Seto Inland Sea (or “Seto Naikai” in Japanese). Found mainly between the islands of Honshu and Shikoku, this body of water has served as a major economic center throughout much of Japan’s history and has given birth to charing port towns like Tomonoura and Takehara. Home to many attractions, the prefectures of Yamaguchi, Hiroshima, Okayama, Hyogo, Osaka, Wakayama, Kagawa, Ehime, Tokushima, Fukuoka, and Oita all share coastlines that brush the Seto Inland Sea.
Now, this might sound a bit confusing for non-Japanese speakers, but the entire region surrounding the Seto Inland Sea is typically referred to as Setouchi. Essentially, the term is used to describe all of the various prefectures that have a coast touching the Seto Inland Sea. While this definition would technically include Oita down in Kyushu, I’d retort that most people here in Japan don’t consider the prefecture to be a part of Setouchi. Alas, Wikipedia seems to disagree…
Regardless of whether you opt to include Oita Prefecture or not (and lets not forget the northern coast of Yamaguchi either), there’s a dizzying amount of adventures to experience in this sector of Japan. While the Tohoku region is home to many of my all-time favorite allures, Setouchi has a density of attractions that few other locations within Japan can compete with. All in all, you’ll find the following options offer the ultimate experience in Setouchi. Honestly, it’s almost alarming how much there is…
- Hiroshima City
Let me begin by saying that the biggest city in Setouchi is by far Hiroshima. Home to the tragic Atomic Bomb Dome and the Hiroshima Peace Memorial Park, Hiroshima is a city that almost all international visitors to Japan know about. While I would never discourage anyone from visiting these historic spots, there’s far more to Hiroshima than its legacy following World War II. As a travel hub, Hiroshima also makes a lot of sense. It’s easy to base yourself here while branching out to other corners of Setouchi, especially if you’re short on time. - Miyajima
By far, the most popular island in the Seto Inland Sea is Miyajima. Home to the venerable Itsukushima Shrine, Miyajima is extremely popular with overseas tourists. Because of this, I still recommend staying overnight on the island if at all possible. Doing so allows you to experience Miyajima after the day-trippers have cleared out, which makes a massive difference. Also worth noting is that nearby Iwakuni, over in neighboring Yamaguchi Prefecture, makes for an easy add-on and very much falls within the broader Setouchi orbit. - Kure
Those who aren’t interested in Japan’s military history would do well to skip Kure. However, historical travel buffs absolutely ought to brave a visit. Home to the Kure Maritime Museum, the city documents its legacy as a vital port and shipbuilding center that once served as headquarters of the Imperial Japanese Navy. Oh, and yes — this is also where the Yamato was built, which tends to be the detail that gets most people through the door. - Hyogo
Hyogo is another Setouchi prefecture that often gets overlooked or treated as little more than a place for beef, but it has plenty to offer for those willing to slow down. Cities like Kobe sit directly on the Seto Inland Sea and offer an easygoing coastal vibe, while places such as Himeji are home to some of Japan’s most impressive historic sights, including Himeji Castle. Well connected by rail and easy to reach from Osaka or Okayama, Hyogo makes for a convenient yet often underestimated stop along the Honshu side of Setouchi. - Okayama
Long-time readers know that I have a bit of a love-hate relationship with Okayama, given my bad luck with the prefecture. That said, the coastal regions make for an easy add-on to any standard Hiroshima itinerary. From Koraku-en and Okayama Castle to the charming Edo period (1603–1868) architecture of Kurashiki, numerous adventures await here in Okayama — if you’re not cursed like I am. - Yamaguchi
For many travelers, Setouchi effectively ends at Miyajima, but venturing just a bit farther west opens up Yamaguchi, which has far more to offer than most people expect. Here, you’ll find Shimonoseki, which has long played an important role as a maritime gateway between Honshu and Kyushu. Additionally, adventurous souls can venture up to the northern side of Yamaguchi (which is also part of Setouchi) to places like Hagi and the dramatic Motonosumi Inari Shrine, both of which reward travelers looking to go beyond the usual stops. - Inner Honshu
One area that often gets overlooked in Setouchi discussions is the inland portion of western Honshu. Towns like Miyoshi, Joge, and Tsuyama don’t immediately come to mind when people think of the Seto Inland Sea, but historically speaking, they’ve long been tied to it. These inland routes once connected the coast to the Chugoku Mountains
Before moving on, it’s worth drawing a line between the Honshu and Shikoku sides of Setouchi. The Honshu portion of the region is undeniably easier to access, with frequent bullet train service and well-developed infrastructure making places like Hiroshima and Okayama straightforward additions to most Japan itineraries. By contrast, Shikoku still feels like one of Japan’s last strongholds of what people often call “real Japan,” largely untouched by overtourism and moving at a noticeably slower pace.
Getting there takes a bit more effort, but for travelers willing to go the extra mile, Shikoku offers a side of Setouchi that feels refreshingly unpolished and deeply local.
- Eastern Shikoku
Eastern Shikoku also fits neatly into the Setouchi picture and is often where travelers first encounter the island thanks to its easy connections with Honshu. Centered around Takamatsu, this side of Shikoku serves as a practical base for exploring both the mainland and the surrounding islands. From here, it’s also easy to reach places like Shodoshima, one of the Seto Inland Sea’s largest islands and a destination that rewards visitors with a mix of coastal scenery, rural landscapes, and laid-back island charm. - Western Shikoku
In addition to the various islands scattered throughout the Seto Inland Sea, western Shikoku is also firmly part of the broader Setouchi region. While there’s no shortage of attractions in this corner of the island, most travelers will want to focus their time on Matsuyama and nearby Dogo Onsen, one of Japan’s oldest public bathhouses and a place often cited as a source of inspiration for Miyazaki Hayao when creating Spirited Away. - Island Hopping
Frankly speaking, there are just too many islands within the Seto Inland Sea to list them all, and each one comes with its own niche appeal. In recent years, art islands like Naoshima, as well as animal-focused spots like Okunoshima, have started to gain far more international attention. That said, there are still plenty of places such as Osaki Kamishima and Suo Oshima that remain largely off the radar for overseas visitors, so it pays to do a bit of homework and find an island that really speaks to you. - Shimanami Kaido
Also known as the Nishiseto Expressway, the Shimanami Kaido links Onomichi with Imabari via a string of bridges crossing the Seto Inland Sea. The roughly 70-kilometer route is extremely popular with cyclists, with bicycle rental and drop-off locations available along the way. If you want to experience the Seto Inland Sea at a slower pace while burning some serious calories, this scenic route is well worth considering.
Seeing as the above selection represents only the tip of the iceberg, allow me to close out this rant by restating that few other areas in Japan are as chock-full of wondrous allures as Setouchi. If you’re looking to have a nonstop adventure that doesn’t require you to traverse huge sections of the country, look no further than this area of Japan. Note that if you’re interested in traversing as much of Setouchi as you possibly can, you’d be wise to make Hiroshima the main hub for your journey. From here, all other destinations can easily be reached.
Before I sign off, one final logistical note: if you’re planning to bounce between multiple Setouchi destinations over a short period of time, it’s worth thinking carefully about how and when you activate any rail passes you plan to use. Much of the Honshu side of Setouchi is well served by JR lines, but the real value comes from timing your pass to cover your longest travel days rather than activating it too early and burning through days while barely moving. A little planning here can go a long way in keeping both your itinerary and your budget on track.
Until next time travelers…
